Are you an experienced mountain climber looking for a real challenge? Try Makalu, a four-sided pyramid soaring 8,485m (27,838 ft) in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km southeast of Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park. Makalu has two subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678 m) about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit and Chomo Lonzo (7804m) that is connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow saddle of 7200m.
Makalu is definitely not a simple climb and is technically difficult and said to be one of the most challenging 8000m plus peaks in the world. You will have to climb some very steep inclines and across razor sharp ridges that will expose you to the often extreme weather conditions that prevail over this mountain. The last leg of the ascent requires some technical skills as you traverse a rocky terrain. Makalu has never been climbed during winter.
Most climbs traverse the north-western side of the mountain. The base camp is usually established at around 5,600m, with other camps at 6,100m, Camp 2 is at 6600m, the third camp is at 7200m and the last camp is at 7600m.
We have scheduled a few extra days in the itinerary in the event of the weather being unsuitable for climbing. These days are not wasted and will further help you to acclimatize as we camp at several altitudes on the side of the mountain at designated base camps. We will make an early morning start on the day of the climb, allowing ample time to reach the summit. Morning weather is often calmer and more predictable, but we mustn’t forget that “mother nature” makes its own rules.
Climbing Makalu requires you are fit and an experienced climber. It is considered a difficult and challenging climb with snow and ice to traverse along with several technical sections. You should be familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, harness, grappling ropes and other alpine climbing techniques.
Some climbers recommend a gradual ascent to higher altitudes to avoid altitude sickness. Altitude sickness is most likely the major factor in denying a climb to the summit –and of course a sudden change in the weather.
The best season to climb Makalu is in April or May, in the spring, or in October and November in the fall season. Climbing mountains will teach you patience, persistence and gratitude. It will also leave you memories to last a lifetime.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
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Here are some important things to know about the Makalu Expedition:
1. Location: Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located in the Mahalangur Himal range in Nepal, near the border with Tibet.
2. Difficulty: Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb. It features steep and technical terrain, including icy slopes, rock faces, and narrow ridges. Previous mountaineering experience and technical skills are necessary to attempt this expedition.
3. Altitude: Makalu's summit stands at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. Acclimatization is crucial to acclimate to the high altitude and prevent altitude sickness.
4. Expedition Length: The duration of a Makalu expedition can vary depending on the chosen route and weather conditions. Typically, it takes around 6-8 weeks to complete the expedition, including acclimatization periods.
5. Climbing Routes: The most popular route to climb Makalu is via the standard Southeast Ridge. This route involves technical climbing, including sections of steep ice and rock. Other routes, such as the West Face and the Northwest Ridge, are more challenging and less frequently climbed.
6. Permits: Climbing Makalu requires obtaining a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). You will also need to have a liaison officer from the NMA accompany your expedition team.
7. Sherpa Support: Like most Himalayan expeditions, Makalu expeditions often rely on the assistance of Sherpas. Sherpas are experienced climbers who provide support in carrying equipment, setting up camps, and guiding climbers during the ascent.
8. Equipment and Gear: Climbing Makalu requires specialized mountaineering equipment, including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, ropes, and high-altitude clothing. It is essential to have proper gear and clothing suitable for extreme weather conditions.
9. Training and Experience: Prior mountaineering experience and physical fitness are crucial for a Makalu expedition. It is recommended to have previous high-altitude climbing experience and undergo specific training programs to prepare for the challenges of the climb.
10. Safety Measures: Safety is of utmost importance during a Makalu expedition. It is essential to follow the guidance of experienced climbers and guides, have proper acclimatization periods, and be prepared for emergencies with necessary medical supplies and evacuation plans.
Remember, climbing Makalu is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning, preparation, and experience. It is always recommended to consult with professional mountaineering organizations and experienced climbers before attempting the expedition.
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Makalu is considered to be one of the most challenging mountains to climb, and it is often regarded as more technically difficult than Mount Everest. The steep and technical terrain, combined with the remote location, make it a demanding expedition.
Yes, it is possible to climb Makalu without climbing any other mountains. However, previous high-altitude mountaineering experience is highly recommended due to the technical difficulty and extreme conditions of the climb.
The cost of a Makalu expedition can vary depending on factors such as the climbing route, duration, support services, and logistical arrangements. On average, the cost can range from $40,000 to $70,000 or more.
The best time to climb Makalu is during the pre-monsoon season (April-May) and post-monsoon season (September-October). These periods generally have more stable weather conditions and lower chances of avalanches.
The duration to summit Makalu can vary depending on the climbing route, weather conditions, and individual climber's fitness level. On average, it takes around 6-8 weeks from base camp to reach the summit and return.
There are no specific age restrictions for climbing Makalu, but climbers are required to be in excellent physical condition and have prior high-altitude mountaineering experience.
Yes, you need to obtain a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to climb Makalu. The permit can be obtained through a registered trekking agency or a professional mountaineering organization.
In case of illness or injury during the expedition, it is crucial to have a well-prepared evacuation plan in place. Helicopter rescue services are available in the Makalu region, but it is recommended to have appropriate travel insurance that covers high-altitude rescues.
Fixed ropes are typically installed on certain sections of Makalu's climbing routes to assist climbers. However, the availability and location of fixed ropes can vary from season to season, and it's important to be prepared to navigate the terrain independently if needed.
While the exact number can vary, it is estimated that around 3000 people have successfully summited Makalu since the first ascent in 1955. However, compared to other popular mountains like Everest, Makalu sees fewer climbers each year due to its technical difficulty and remote location.
100%
Based On 3 Reviews
The Makalu Expedition was not just a physical challenge but also a journey of personal growth and achievement. The mental strength and resilience required to overcome the obstacles along the way taught us valuable lessons that will stay with us forever. Standing on the summit of Makalu, surrounded by the awe-inspiring Himalayan landscape, was a truly transformative experience that will be etched in our hearts forever.
The expert guides on our Makalu Expedition played a crucial role in our success. Their knowledge of the mountain, strategic planning, and unwavering support were instrumental in navigating the demanding terrain and ensuring our safety throughout the journey. We felt confident and well-guided, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the experience.
Our Makalu Expedition was an incredible adventure that allowed us to conquer the fifth highest peak in the world while creating unforgettable memories. From the challenging ascent to the stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, every moment of this expedition was a testament to the beauty and power of nature.
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Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is one of the pioneers of Trekking, tour and expedition in Nepal which was established on January 07, 1977, with a motto: ‘Enhancing Tourism possibilities across the Globe’. Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is proud to be recognized as the fifth Trekking and Adventure company authorized by the Tourism Board of Nepal.
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