This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to scale the world’s highest mountain (8848m/ 29,028ft) via the North Face. Everest tops the list of all serious high altitude climbers. This is truly as high as you can go anywhere in the world. Why the north face? It is said to be technically more difficult due to the amount of time spent at higher altitudes and is far less crowded during the climbing season. The South route has the notorious Khumbu Glacier, but despite this, the North Face is still technically more challenging. The North Face of Everest, or Sagamartha in Nepali, is reached from within Tibet, whereas the southern access is from Nepal. This expedition will give you all the climbing experience a climber would expect before climbing such a colossal peak. You will spend days acclimatizing and will practice climbing to higher camps and returning, all the while eliminating the possible danger of altitude sickness. This is a major reason for many failed attempts on Everest – not being properly acclimatized.
Everest was first referred to as Peak XV and was later named Mt. Everest after the lead surveyor Sir George Everest who surveyed the mountain in 1856. It wasn’t until May 25, 1960, that New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay finally reached the summit via the south route. The first summit via the north route was accomplished by a group of Chinese climbers.
The ascent from the north side, in Tibet, is considered more stunning as you climb 3,000m from the Rongbuk Glacier below on the Tibetan Plateau. As with all climbing expeditions, there is a journey that is said to be as important as the destination. In this case, you will be exposed to the pure Buddhist Tibetan traditions in the region. Your guides will be Sherpas, whose faith is deeply rooted in Buddhism. Sherpas will do “puja”(prayers) prior to any ascent of a mountain. Their faith and strength are unparalleled when it comes to climbing. No one does it better!
The Mount Everest Expedition is without a doubt a once in a lifetime opportunity. However, there are inherent dangers in climbing Everest, such as previously mentioned, altitude sickness, as well as severe weather conditions and avalanches. Anyone considering this climb should have several 600m or 7000m climbs under their belt. You must be familiar with all aspects of using the equipment of high altitude expeditions. You will also need to be extremely fit, both physically and mentally. Prior to heading to Everest, it is advised that you strengthen your cardiovascular system and physical strength. At these high altitudes, oxygen levels drop around 60-70 percent compared to sea level. You will also be required to carry a large pack containing oxygen and other equipment.
The Base Camp is situated below the Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet. A 20 km trek from here takes you to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) situated on the rough and uneven ground exposed to high winds. The climb from ABC to East Rongbuk Glacier takes you across snow-laden slopes to the North Col where Camp 1 is located between Everest and Changtse. Crossing another long snowy slope takes you to Camp II. The climb from camp II to camp III is exposed to extreme weather and can be dangerous. It is mostly rock, and a mistake here can be lethal. There are fixed ropes to assist and minimize danger. Once you reach Camp III you will notice a decrease in oxygen levels. Leaving Camp III you may feel the need for oxygen as you head across rocky terrain to Camp IV using fixed ropes. Camp IV is a relatively small camp where we will not linger before heading to the North East Ridge where you face the first challenging obstacle, known as the first step – rock structure close 30 meters high requiring a steep climb before facing the second step, a 40m rock structure and probably the greatest challenge on the way to the summit. Again you will climb until you reach the third step of 25m, considered to be the easiest of the three steps. You will finally reach the summit from where you will look down on the world and have an enormous and overwhelming sense of achievement – unlike anything else you have done in your life.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will do everything within their power to lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
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Here are some important things to know about an Everest Expedition:
1. Physical Fitness: Climbing Mount Everest is a physically demanding and challenging endeavor. It is crucial to be in excellent physical condition and have prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Regular cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and endurance-building activities are essential to prepare your body for the expedition.
2. Climbing Experience: Climbing Mount Everest requires prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering. It is recommended to have successfully climbed peaks above 6,000 meters (19,685 feet) and have experience with technical climbing skills, including using crampons, ice axes, and ropes.
3. Permits: Climbing Mount Everest requires obtaining permits from the China government. These permits include the Everest climbing permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and Khumbu Rural Municipality permit. It is important to work with a reputable mountaineering agency that can assist you in obtaining the necessary permits.
4. Climbing Route: The most popular climbing route on Mount Everest is the South Col route from the Nepalese side. This route is known for its challenges and is attempted by the majority of climbers. Other routes, such as the North Ridge from the Tibetan side, are less crowded but require additional logistical arrangements.
5. Climbing Season: The climbing season for Mount Everest is typically in the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November). These seasons offer more stable weather, fewer storms, and better climbing conditions. It is advisable to plan your expedition during these times to increase your chances of success.
6. Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is crucial when climbing Mount Everest. It involves gradually ascending to higher altitudes, allowing your body to adapt to the reduced oxygen levels. This process helps minimize the risk of altitude sickness and improves your chances of reaching the summit. Acclimatization periods are built into the expedition schedule.
7. Sherpas and Guides: Hiring experienced Sherpas and guides is highly recommended for a successful Everest Expedition. Sherpas are local experts who have extensive knowledge of the mountain, its routes, and the challenges it presents. They provide crucial support, help with logistics, and ensure the safety of climbers.
8. Safety Considerations: Climbing Mount Everest involves inherent risks, including altitude sickness, avalanches, extreme weather conditions, and crevasses. It is essential to be aware of these risks and take necessary precautions. Following the guidance of experienced guides, using proper equipment, and being prepared for emergencies are essential for safety.
9. Environmental Responsibility: Mount Everest is a fragile environment, and climbers should practice responsible mountaineering. Follow the principles of Leave No Trace, respect the local culture and customs, and dispose of waste responsibly. Minimize your impact on the mountain and preserve its natural beauty.
10. Mental Preparation: Climbing Mount Everest is as much a mental challenge as a physical one. It requires perseverance, mental strength, and the ability to handle adversity. Prepare yourself mentally for the long and arduous journey, as well as the potential difficulties and setbacks you may encounter.
Embarking on an Everest Expedition is a significant undertaking that requires careful planning, preparation, and experience. Working with a reputable mountaineering agency and experienced guides is crucial for a safe and successful climb. Respect the mountain, embrace the challenge, and enjoy the incredible experience that climbing Mount Everest offers.
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The North side of Mount Everest refers to the Tibetan side, which is the less crowded and less popular route compared to the South side in Nepal. It offers a different perspective and climbing experience.
To reach the North side, you will need to travel to Tibet and obtain the necessary permits. The journey typically involves flying to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, and then driving to the base camp located at Rongbuk Monastery.
The climbing season for the North side is similar to that of the South side, which is typically in the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November). These seasons offer more stable weather and better climbing conditions.
Yes, there are some notable differences between the North and South side routes. The North side is generally considered to have a less technical climb, but it involves navigating steep slopes, traversing glaciers, and dealing with high-altitude challenges. The South side, on the other hand, has the famous Khumbu Icefall and the Hillary Step, which are more technically demanding.
The duration of the climb can vary depending on several factors, including weather conditions, acclimatization schedule, and individual fitness levels. On average, it takes around 60-70 days for a complete Everest Expedition from the North side, including acclimatization periods and summit attempts.
Yes, prior mountaineering experience is highly recommended when attempting to climb Mount Everest from the North side. It is important to have experience with high-altitude climbing, technical skills, and knowledge of using mountaineering equipment.
Yes, you can hire Sherpas or guides on the North side. They provide crucial support, help with logistics, and ensure the safety of climbers. It is advisable to work with a reputable mountaineering agency that can provide experienced Sherpas and guides.
Similar to the South side, the North side also presents inherent risks such as altitude sickness, avalanches, extreme weather conditions, and crevasses. It is important to be aware of these risks, follow safety protocols, and have proper equipment and emergency plans in place.
You will need to obtain permits from the Chinese government to climb Mount Everest from the North side. These permits include the Tibet Travel Permit, Aliens' Travel Permit, and the Mountaineering Permit. Working with a reputable mountaineering agency can assist you in obtaining the necessary permits.
Preparing mentally for an Everest Expedition involves understanding the challenges, having a positive mindset, and being mentally resilient. It is important to prepare for the physical and mental demands of the climb, as well as potential setbacks and difficulties that may arise.
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The exceptional guides on our Everest Expedition (North) provided us with unwavering support and guidance throughout the entire journey. Their expertise in mountaineering, knowledge of the mountain's challenges, and dedication to our safety and success made the expedition a well-orchestrated and memorable experience that will stay with us forever.
Our Everest Expedition (North) was a life-changing journey to the roof of the world. Scaling the highest peak on Earth was an awe-inspiring adventure that pushed our limits and rewarded us with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment that words cannot describe.
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Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is one of the pioneers of Trekking, tour and expedition in Nepal which was established on January 07, 1977, with a motto: ‘Enhancing Tourism possibilities across the Globe’. Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is proud to be recognized as the fifth Trekking and Adventure company authorized by the Tourism Board of Nepal.
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