A sacred quest and expedition for hidden treasures to the aptly named Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m/ 28,170ft) – meaning "The Five Treasures of the Great Snows", located in the Kanchenjunga Himal bordered by the Tamur River in the west, Lhonak Chu and Jongsang La Pass (6145m) in the north, and the Teesta River in Sikkim, India in the east.
The ‘Five Treasures refer to the five peaks” Kanchenjunga I (8586m), Kanchenjunga West (8505m), Kanchenjunga South (8494m), Central (8482m) and Kangbachen (7902m).Three of the five peaks that make up Kanchenjunga Himal, Kanchenjunga 1, Central (8482m) and South (8494m) are on the border, while the West (8505m) and Kangbachen (7902m) are in Nepal. Kanchenjunga is also India’s highest peak and is close to the eastern border of Nepal and situated in the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area. Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world derived from the Tibetan word 'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga'. The five treasures of God referred to are: salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain, and medicine. The local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but will be revealed to the devout when the world is in peril.
The reason the Kanchenjunga Expedition is for serious climbers is that it is prone to snowstorms and avalanches and requires experience in all aspects of high altitude ascents. This is a challenging climb that will test your skills and endurance – especially so at this high altitude. With three peaks over 8000m and 11 over 7000m, you can anticipate a feast for the eyes of pristine whiteness. The route to the summit is via the south face. It is a technical ascent over rock and ice with the final 1500m a pretty straight forward climb up to the summit.
Five glaciers drain from the Kanchenjunga Massif: Zemu, Kanchenjunga, Yalung, Talung and the Ramtang glacier add to the amazing topography of this mountain range as they drain down to form several stunning rivers, the Sapta Koshi River (792km in length) in Nepal that eventually flows into the Ganges River, and the Teesta River in India (315km in length) that makes its way through India to the Bay of Bengal in Bangladesh.
Adequate time to acclimatize is the key to any serious climbing expedition -, especially at these extreme altitudes. There will be many climbs up and back to base camps that will ensure you are safely acclimatized before your assault on the summit.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will do everything within their power to lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
Sherpa Expedition & Trekking has more than 40 years in the trekking and climbing business. We have an unparalleled reputation in providing logistical support and excellent client service.
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Here are some important things to know about a Kanchenjunga Expedition:
1. Location: Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world, located on the border of Nepal and India. The mountain has five main peaks, with the highest being Kanchenjunga Main, standing at 8,586 meters (28,169 feet).
2. Physical Fitness: Climbing Kanchenjunga requires excellent physical fitness. It is a demanding and challenging expedition that involves long days of trekking and climbing in high-altitude conditions. Prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering is highly recommended.
3. Climbing Experience: Prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering is essential for a Kanchenjunga Expedition. It is recommended to have successfully climbed peaks above 6,000 meters (19,685 feet) and have experience with technical climbing skills, including using crampons, ice axes, and ropes.
4. Permits: Climbing Kanchenjunga requires obtaining permits from the respective governments of Nepal and India. You will need a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for the Nepalese side and a permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) for the Indian side.
5. Climbing Season: The climbing season for Kanchenjunga is typically in the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November). These seasons offer more stable weather, fewer storms, and better climbing conditions. It is advisable to plan your expedition during these times to increase your chances of success.
6. Route Options: There are several route options for climbing Kanchenjunga, including the North Ridge from the Nepalese side and the Yalung Face from the Indian side. These routes vary in difficulty and require different levels of technical expertise. Consult with experienced climbers and mountaineering agencies to determine the best route for your expedition.
7. Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is crucial when climbing Kanchenjunga. It involves gradually ascending to higher altitudes, allowing your body to adapt to the reduced oxygen levels. This process helps minimize the risk of altitude sickness and improves your chances of reaching the summit. Acclimatization periods are built into the expedition schedule.
8. Sherpas and Guides: Hiring experienced Sherpas and guides is highly recommended for a successful Kanchenjunga Expedition. They provide crucial support, help with logistics, and ensure the safety of climbers. Working with a reputable mountaineering agency that can provide experienced Sherpas and guides is advisable.
9. Safety Considerations: Climbing Kanchenjunga involves inherent risks, including altitude sickness, avalanches, extreme weather conditions, and crevasses. It is essential to be aware of these risks and take necessary precautions. Following the guidance of experienced guides, using proper equipment, and being prepared for emergencies are essential for safety.
10. Environmental Responsibility: Kanchenjunga is a pristine and ecologically sensitive region. Climbers should practice responsible mountaineering and adhere to the principles of Leave No Trace. Respect the local culture and customs, dispose of waste responsibly, and minimize your impact on the environment.
Embarking on a Kanchenjunga Expedition is a significant undertaking that requires careful planning, preparation, and experience. Working with a reputable mountaineering agency and experienced guides is crucial for a safe and successful climb. Respect the mountain, embrace the challenge, and enjoy the incredible experience that climbing Kanchenjunga offers.
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No, climbing Kanchenjunga requires prior mountaineering experience. It is recommended to have successfully climbed peaks above 6,000 meters (19,685 feet) and have experience with technical climbing skills. This is a challenging expedition that should not be undertaken without the necessary skills and experience.
The duration of a Kanchenjunga Expedition can vary depending on several factors, including weather conditions, acclimatization schedule, and individual fitness levels. On average, it takes around 45-60 days for a complete expedition, including acclimatization periods and summit attempts.
The best time to climb Kanchenjunga is during the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November) seasons. These seasons offer more stable weather, fewer storms, and better climbing conditions. It is advisable to plan your expedition during these times to increase your chances of success.
Yes, climbing Kanchenjunga requires obtaining permits from the respective governments of Nepal and India. You will need a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for the Nepalese side and a permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) for the Indian side. These permits need to be obtained in advance through authorized agencies.
Climbing Kanchenjunga requires excellent physical fitness. It involves long days of trekking and climbing in high-altitude conditions. Prior training and conditioning, including cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and endurance building, are essential to prepare your body for the physical demands of the expedition.
Yes, it is highly recommended to hire experienced Sherpas and guides for a Kanchenjunga Expedition. They provide crucial support, help with logistics, and ensure the safety of climbers. Working with a reputable mountaineering agency that can provide experienced Sherpas and guides is advisable.
The availability of fixed ropes and camps can vary depending on the specific route and conditions. Some sections of the route may have fixed ropes in place, while others may require climbers to fix their own ropes. Camps are typically established at strategic points during the expedition to facilitate acclimatization and rest.
Climbing Kanchenjunga involves inherent risks, including altitude sickness, avalanches, extreme weather conditions, and crevasses. It is important to be aware of these risks, follow safety protocols, and have proper equipment and emergency plans in place. Working with experienced guides and following their instructions is crucial for safety.
Climbing Kanchenjunga independently is highly discouraged due to the technical nature of the climb and the risks involved. It is strongly recommended to climb with a reputable mountaineering agency, experienced guides, and a well-equipped team to ensure safety and increase the chances of a successful summit.
In case of an emergency or need for rescue, it is important to have a contingency plan in place. Communication and evacuation protocols should be established with your mountaineering agency and guides. Helicopter rescue services are available in the region, but it is crucial to have appropriate insurance coverage for such situations.
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Based On 2 Reviews
The guides on our Kanchenjunga expedition were exemplary, providing us with unparalleled support throughout the journey. Their expertise in navigating the challenging terrain, their knowledge of the mountain's intricacies, and their commitment to our safety and success made the expedition a truly remarkable and well-organized adventure.
Our Kanchenjunga expedition was a majestic climb to the third-highest peak in the world. The sheer grandeur of the mountain, with its towering peaks and dramatic landscapes, provided us with a mountaineering experience that surpassed all expectations.
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Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is one of the pioneers of Trekking, tour and expedition in Nepal which was established on January 07, 1977, with a motto: ‘Enhancing Tourism possibilities across the Globe’. Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is proud to be recognized as the fifth Trekking and Adventure company authorized by the Tourism Board of Nepal.
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